2 posts tagged “live music”
Managed to leave reasonably early in the morning and took some back roads towards Memphis. Mostly on Highway 70A/76. Some of it would have been really nice but the weather had turned and in the rain, it wasn’t really that nice. Also a reason why I didn’t really stop to take photos because it was simply too wet. I had a BBQ salad lunch at a random diner called Chow Wagon near Milan and continued on to Memphis where I arrived around 5. I had a great view from my hotel window to the Pyramid and the bridge over the Mississippi.
Unlike Nashville, Memphis seemed rather desolate and run-down to me. There are obviously rich suburbs and the business district in Downtown is lush but the poor areas are right next door.
Walked around a bit, found that Beale Street was in easy walking distance from my hotel, walked back to drop off my camera and headed out again.
Beale Street is rather cool indeed, lots of bars and clubs, many of which offer live music and unlike Bourbon St. in New Orleans it isn’t as touristy and seedy (no strip clubs and the like). I had dinner at B.B. King’s Blues Club and listened to two bands who played a mix of classic Rythmn&Blues and Soul. Very good. The rest of the evening I spent at the Rum Boogie Café where “Blues Healer” played all kinds of Memphis/Chicago and other Blues classics. In the bar next door Dr. “Feelgood” Potts played Howlin’ wolf/John Lee Hooker style classic electric blues. The cool thing is that the two bars have an interconnecting door so you can just switch back and forth. Very groovy.
I was rather tired so called it a night around midnight and walked back which was fine but I didn’t really feel safe because I was accosted several times by panhandlers as they are called here. I just ignored them and I got nothing worse than a few bad words but it’s still a bit disconcerting. Still, nothing happened and I had a good night's sleep.
The route:
View Larger Map
After some indecison about what to do (it was raining when I got up but by the time I had had breakfast it had cleared up again), I decided to go into town after all so took the bus in. Walked around a bit and then visited the Country Music Hall of Fame. A wonderful collection of exhibits from the history of Country Music, with artifacts ranging from the first hand-built banjos to Elvis’ gold Cadillac and gold piano. The second floor had a temporary special exhibition about Ray Charles, again with outfits and instruments, like the Rhodes he used on tour.
More wandering around past the Ryman Auditorium (where the Grand Ole Opry used to be but now is a standard venue where all the big names not just in Country play).
Bussed back, got into my car and cruised around Music Row a bit where all the record companies are based. Oddly enough, these aren’t shiny highrises but normal houses, family homes.
After relaxing a bit in my room, I headed out for dinner to Rotier's, one of the local institutions. It's a cosy little place with a bar, a row of booths and a number of free standing tables in the back. I went for one of today's specials which was Country Fried Steak with fries, Okra and Zucchini. For those who don't know, it's a steak that's battered or breaded, deep fried and served with gravy (a bit like the German Jägerschnitzel but without the mushrooms). Now, a dish category called "Meat&Three" doesn't sound too bad until you realise that everything is deep fried. It was very tasty but too rich for my taste. I really shouldn't have that chocolate milkshake but the waitress asked so nicely...
My destination for the evening was the Station Inn on 12th Ave South.
Again, a rather derelict looking building in a derelict area (lots of
empty plots and construction work) but cosy inside. At least twice the
size of the Bluebird with loads of tables and mismatched chairs, a bar
and a real stage.
The order of the evening was Bluegrass and tonight's performance was
basically a jam session with a variety of artists taking the stage.
Very cool indeed. I also managed to get a decent number of good photos
as I had a good seat and nobody minded me taking them.
When the show was over, the weather outside was just a little bit awful with driving rain. Good thing my car was parked just around the corner so I didn't get completely soaked. Good thing I didn't walk which had been my first plan...
